KELIMUTU LAKE
Some
people may only dream about trekking to Mt Kelimutu on the
island of Flores with its three colored lakes, while others make it a reality.
The challenging trip in a rented polished 7-seater car can make one entertained
for hours because of the endless winding road. However, being shaken by the
sharp curves in the road that cuts through the 350-km long Flores Island is a
worthy price to pay to witness the ultimate top-drawer panoramas that Flores has to offer.
Mt. Kelimutu National Park is the smallest among
six national parks in the stretch between Bali
and the Nusatenggara islands.
Its size obviously does not matter much when it offers one of the most
spectacular wonders that nature has to offer. There are three lakes on the
mountain sharing the same name, Kelimutu, meaning ‘the boiling lake’. Each has
its own colors and a local name. But all are believed to be the resting place
of departed souls.
Located
some 66 km. from the town of Ende or 83 km. from Maumere, Lake Kelimutu was discovered by a Dutch
named Van Such Telen in 1915. It gained global fame after Y. Bouman wrote in
his notes in 1929 about the bizarre color-changing lakes.
As
travelers start ascending from Moni,
a small rural town, a basecamp for backpackers, idyllic views appear which will
remain perfect in the mind. The westernmost lake is named Tiwu Ata Mbupu,
meaning ‘the lake of old people’. The middle one is called Tiwu Nuwa Muri
Koo Fai, or ‘the lake for young men and maiden’. The easternmost is called
Tiwu Ata Polo, or ‘the lake for evils spirits’. The three lakes are
quite a display as their colors keep changing.
Unlike
the Blue Lake in Mt. Gambier, South Australia, that changes color from blue to
cold steel grey within a predictable period, or Lake Yudamari in Mt. Nakadake,
in Japan, that changes from blue-green to green, the Kelimutu lakes
are unpredictable as to when and what color they will change into. Sometimes,
the colors are blue, green, and black, and some other times they turn to white,
red, and blue. The last time a traveler saw them, one was dark brown, just like
a pond of chocolate. Previously, the east lake was red and the middle lake was
blue.
Scientifically
speaking, lakes change colors due to subaqueous fumaroles. Scientists believe
that these are the result of minor phreatic eruptions in ancient time. The
phenomenon here, however, are of particular interest to geologists since the
three lakes present different colors but are yet located on the peak of the
same volcano. The local ranger in the national park explained that this is due
to chemical reactions of materials contained in the lake, triggered by volcanic
gaseous activities. The local people in Moni, however, believe that
somehow people around the mountain have done something evil and have died
there.
Lake
Kelimutu is part of the Kelimutu National Park, presenting a highly aesthetic
value and surreal experience. The national park’s highest point is 5,679 feet
at Mt. Kelibara (1,731 meters), and 5,544 feet high (1,690 meters) at Mt.
Kelimutu. It is a national park that protects 19 endemic and endangered
animals, among which, the Floresian punai (Treron floris), Wallacea
owl (Otus silvicola), Floresian kancilan (Pachycephala nudigula),
Floresian eagle (Spizeatus floris), and Timorese tesia (Tesia
everetti).
Here
are also endemic mice, deer, porcupines, and the legendary luwak or
civet (Pharadoxurus hermaphroditus) that gained its fame for the
expensive coffee it produces. Visit Mt. Kelimutu and the three-colored lakes as
an essential part of your Flores adventure.
